Xu Zhi, Fall/​Winter 2017

YOUTUBE

This sea­son took much of its inspir­a­tion from the con­cep­tu­al art piece ‘The Vis­it­ors’ by Rag­nar Kjartans­son which shows a great con­trast of vul­ner­ab­il­ity versus strength.

Emo­tions, as it proves, can be trans­lated into all media, and although they may appear to be fall­ing apart, they are in fact held strongly togeth­er. Like ‘The Vis­it­ors’, Xu Zhi Autumn Win­ter 2017 col­lec­tion is a play on the idea of indi­vidu­als being phys­ic­ally apart but sym­bol­ic­ally togeth­er — and the truth that as people we can be con­nec­ted, whil­st still being alone.

Loose tting wool and chi on are teamed along­side intel­li­gently decon­struc­ted tail­or­ing and lengths of raw den­im, all cre­at­ing a relaxed, subtly fem­in­ine sil­hou­ette.

Explor­ing the stu­dio tech­nique of braid­ing yarn yet fur­ther from the pre­vi­ous sea­son, the indi­vidu­al strands have been placed onto real hand-painted brush­stroke tem­plates in a gradi­ent form­a­tion, as to cre­ate the illu­sion of the yarns being painted onto the gar­ment. As well as mak­ing the pieces incred­ibly light, it has taken the con­cept of the house meth­od to new heights of unique tex­ture con­struc­tion.

The tech­nique is com­pli­men­ted by a gradu­al palette of camel, dark brown, black and navy — with a selec­tion of jew­el toned accents as well as pops of vibrant yel­low, green and blue.

Xu Zhi is delighted to have been invited to show this sea­son as part of the o cial sched­ule in Mil­an at the Armani/​Teatro ; sup­por­ted by Gior­gio Armani and Cam­era Nazionale del­la Moda Itali­ana.

YOUKU

XU ZHI 2017 秋冬新系列灵感来自冰岛艺术家 Rag­nar Kjartans­son 的概念装置艺术《The Visitors》,XU ZHI 将艺术家在创作中蕴含的脆弱与坚强的比对巧妙融入到时装创作中。

 

人类的情感可以通过各式介质向外表达,并彼此紧密联系 —  — 哪怕表面上似乎各自独立。

同《The Visitors》一样,XU ZHI 的 2017 年秋冬系列试图表现个体之间即使在实体空间内分散各地、各自独立,当他们面对自我人生的不同挑战,仍能得以用自己的艺术沟通方式表达倾诉自我,将彼此联系在一起。

 

XU ZHI 的 2017 系列中,羊毛和雪纺通过精准的解构式剪裁,构成稍显宽松的服装廓形;丹宁布的加入,更帮助整体造型营造出放松且含蓄的女性形象。

品牌擅长的面料编织技法在这一季得到了进一步的完善和提升,编绳的面料处理结合刺绣手法,运用在有着渐变手绘装饰的服装上,营造出编织机理似乎是平面画布笔触的视觉效果。服装因此更显轻盈。XU ZHI 的签名式创作技法也发展出新的风格。

驼色、暗绿、墨黑、深棕和海军蓝的色彩搭配构成这个系列的主要配色,并融入活跃跳脱的宝石色泽,配合独特的制衣手法,构成了这个丰盈的新系列。

 

XU ZHI 2017 秋冬系列受邀在米兰时装周官方日程上于 Armani Teatro 发布, 由 Cam­era Nazionale del­la Moda 与 Gior­gio Armani 倾力支持呈现。

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