Xu Zhi, Fall/Winter 2017

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This season took much of its inspiration from the conceptual art piece ‘The Visitors’ by Ragnar Kjartansson which shows a great contrast of vulnerability versus strength.

Emotions, as it proves, can be translated into all media, and although they may appear to be falling apart, they are in fact held strongly together. Like ‘The Visitors’, Xu Zhi Autumn Winter 2017 collection is a play on the idea of individuals being physically apart but symbolically together – and the truth that as people we can be connected, whilst still being alone.

Loose tting wool and chi on are teamed alongside intelligently deconstructed tailoring and lengths of raw denim, all creating a relaxed, subtly feminine silhouette.

Exploring the studio technique of braiding yarn yet further from the previous season, the individual strands have been placed onto real hand-painted brushstroke templates in a gradient formation, as to create the illusion of the yarns being painted onto the garment. As well as making the pieces incredibly light, it has taken the concept of the house method to new heights of unique texture construction.

The technique is complimented by a gradual palette of camel, dark brown, black and navy – with a selection of jewel toned accents as well as pops of vibrant yellow, green and blue.

Xu Zhi is delighted to have been invited to show this season as part of the o cial schedule in Milan at the Armani/Teatro; supported by Giorgio Armani and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

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XU ZHI 2017 秋冬新系列灵感来自冰岛艺术家 Ragnar Kjartansson 的概念装置艺术《The Visitors》,XU ZHI 将艺术家在创作中蕴含的脆弱与坚强的比对巧妙融入到时装创作中。

 

人类的情感可以通过各式介质向外表达,并彼此紧密联系——哪怕表面上似乎各自独立。

同《The Visitors》一样,XU ZHI 的 2017 年秋冬系列试图表现个体之间即使在实体空间内分散各地、各自独立,当他们面对自我人生的不同挑战,仍能得以用自己的艺术沟通方式表达倾诉自我,将彼此联系在一起。

 

XU ZHI 的 2017 系列中,羊毛和雪纺通过精准的解构式剪裁,构成稍显宽松的服装廓形;丹宁布的加入,更帮助整体造型营造出放松且含蓄的女性形象。

品牌擅长的面料编织技法在这一季得到了进一步的完善和提升,编绳的面料处理结合刺绣手法,运用在有着渐变手绘装饰的服装上,营造出编织机理似乎是平面画布笔触的视觉效果。服装因此更显轻盈。XU ZHI 的签名式创作技法也发展出新的风格。

驼色、暗绿、墨黑、深棕和海军蓝的色彩搭配构成这个系列的主要配色,并融入活跃跳脱的宝石色泽,配合独特的制衣手法,构成了这个丰盈的新系列。

 

XU ZHI 2017 秋冬系列受邀在米兰时装周官方日程上于 Armani Teatro 发布, 由 Camera Nazionale della Moda 与 Giorgio Armani 倾力支持呈现。

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